The USDA plant zones are based solely on mean average low temperature. What is left out is very important. The average low temperature is important to know. This information makes sure you are buying a plant that can take the cold, but there is much more to a plant’s hardiness.
2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map for Wyoming; Source: USDA Website
Starting with water, here in the west we are almost always in a drought of some level. The average yearly moisture for Laramie County, Wyoming is 8 to 15 inches. Some places in Natrona County, Wyoming, get as little as 3 inches and up to 12 inches. These numbers include the moisture in snow. Back east, the average annual moisture starts at 21 inches and goes up to 45 inches, with an average of 38 inches. This is a world of difference for a plant that tolerates wet soils, but dies in dry soils, but has a USDA Zone for the area.
Soil pH is another important component to plant growth. Some plants need an acidic soil, where other plants tolerate a more alkaline soil. In the west, we deal with an alkaline soil or pH of 7 or higher. This is not information on the USDA plant zones.
The best example where soil is critical for plant survival are Blueberries. For some reason the big box stores like to sell them to us here in the west. While blueberries are very cold hardy and zone appropriate for the west, they are not tolerant of alkaline high pH soils–they are acid low pH soil lovers. Trying to change the soil pH is extremely difficult if not impossible. A fertilizer for acid loving plants is not the answer, it only causes problems in the long run. Blueberries will not tolerate dry windy locations especially during the winter. Like all fruit bearing plants and trees they need a lot more water than the average shrub or lawn.
If you must grow blueberries, plant them directly into a bag/container of peat moss, never let it dry out. For winter, bring the plant and bag into a shelter out of the wind and never let it dry out. Use a low nitrogen fertilizer, but one with micronutrients.
It is much easier to grow a plant or tree that is already adapted to our growing conditions. It is nearly impossible to change the soil for a plant that doesn’t want to grow here. It’s better to buy a plant that is more cold tolerant than the zone listed for your area.
Written by Catherine Wissner, retired University of Wyoming Laramie County Extension Horticulturist.
Additional References:
“Use this tool to guide garden and landscape choices – but understand its limitations,” Caleb Carter and Hudson Hill, posted April 7, 2021, https://uwagnews.com/2021/04/07/use-this-tool-to-guide-garden-and-landscape-choices-but-understand-its-limitations/↩︎
USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Maps — How to Use Them: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/pages/how-to-use-the-maps
USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map for download: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/pages/map-downloads
A tree that was on the brink of disappearing is now making an amazing comeback. These are the American Elms, Ulmus americana, they are the quintessential shade tree that keeps streets and homes cool in the summer. Their tall, graceful limbs and open habit were nearly lost.
St. Croix (TM) American Elm, Ulmus americana ‘St Croix,’ Photo Credit: Baileys Nursery, 2024
In the late 1990’s researchers found numerous species of American Elms that survived the great die off from the 60’s-80’s. A die off caused by a fungus (Ophiostoma ulmi and Ophiostoma novo-ulmi) that is carried by a tiny European Elm Bark Beetle, (Scolytus multistriatus). A beetle that lays eggs just under the bark and inoculates the tree with the fungus, which eventually kills the tree.
However, several American Elms scattered across the northern U.S., not only survived but thrived with good resistance to the fungus. A lot more University level research went into propagating and testing these survivor Elms for the nursery trade.
Why plant American Elms? To start, they tolerate a wide variety of soils and growing conditions, can deal with drought, wind, minus 40 degrees and take average water. They can get big, up to 60 to 75 feet depending on location and conditions, so plan their placement carefully. They are long lived and fast growing up to 3 feet per year. Most have an open spreading vase shape canopy. Dark green leaves in the summer and golden colored leaves in the fall. More plant nurseries are carrying them. Some varieties to choose from: St Croix, Prairie Expedition, Cathedral, Accolade and Princeton, to name a few of the new American Elms.
A smaller tree to consider is the Prairie Gold (tm/r) Aspen, Populus tremuloides, ‘NE ARB”. This prairie native is disease resistant, fast growing and tolerates a variety of soil types. It was found near Columbus, Nebraska, by Allen Wilke. This Aspen will get 30 feet tall but only 15 feet wide, is fast growing, but long lived. It will survive minus 40 winters and takes average water. The leaves are dark green in the summer and brilliant yellow gold in the fall.
Most Aspens sold at nurseries are wild harvested from the mountains. Where the soil is cool and moist with a short growing season. It is very hard to duplicate those growing conditions on the prairie. Wild harvested Aspens are short lived and prone to numerous diseases. Make sure to get a nursery grown Prairie Gold (tm/r) Aspen suited to lower elevations.
You can find these trees, and many others suited for Laramie County, by browsing our LCMG Bare Root Tree & Shrub Fundraiser. The pre-sale is open until April 20, 2024.
Written by Catherine Wissner, retired University of Wyoming Laramie County Extension Horticulturist and Laramie County Master Gardener.
Last week marked the official start of spring, and as the days grow longer, our thoughts naturally turn to our gardens. From selecting flower varieties to planning our vegetable harvests, we’re eager to dig our hands into the soil. But what if our gardens could do more than just nourish our own tables? What if they could also feed our neighbors in need?
The Grow a Little Extra Campaign runs from March to October (or until your last harvest comes in). UW Laramie County Extension CNP Educators Jill Person, Tammy Ware, and Kelsi Goldfarb, along with Master Gardener Program Coordinator, Hannah Morneau, provide the heartbeat of the Laramie County portion of the campaign. They recognize that gardening isn’t just about tending to plants; it’s about tending to our communities.
They are encouraging gardeners—be they beginners or seasoned pros—to choose to become hunger heroes this year by donating a little extra produce to the local community. To make it a little easier, the GALE Campaign is providing a limited number of free seeds of six produce varieties suited for our short-growing season. These seed packets are available for pickup at the UW Laramie County Extension Office. Alongside your donated produce, UW Laramie County Extension CNP Educators provide recipe cards for cooking inspiration.
The Cheyenne Botanic Gardens will also have a limited number of GALE seeds available and will serve as a donation drop-off location. Isaiah Smith, Horticulture & Operations Supervisor, said, “This is a fantastic program to partner with. Cheyenne Botanic Gardens is always looking for new ways to engage with, and give back to, our community and it really is easy for anyone to ‘grow a little extra’ in their home garden to help out others with food insecurity.”
2024 GALE Seed Varieties, photo credit: S. Sauls
How to become a Laramie County Hunger Hero
1. Identify extra growing space: Take a fresh look at your garden. Are there unused corners that could yield more than just marigolds? Perhaps you have extra pots or containers that would be perfect for growing determinate tomatoes. Identify these spaces to maximize your produce yield. This wide-bed gardening article from the Cheyenne Botanic Gardens may also offer new insight into getting more out of your growing space.
2. Select, plant, and care for your crops: You’re welcome to donate produce of any variety. Choose your favorite vegetables or use the free seeds offered by the GALE Campaign. Opt for short-growing season varieties. For specific growing instructions, refer to the information on your seed packet.
3. Harvest and Share: When your produce is ready, donation drop-off locations are:
UW Laramie County Extension Office — 1400 East College Drive, Suite 406, Cheyenne (their office is located in the Pathfinder Building on the LCCC Campus); drop-off times are Monday – Thursday from 7:00 am – 6:00 pm; or
Cheyenne Botanic Gardens — 710 S. Lions Park Drive, Cheyenne; please drop-off donations at the front desk of the Shane Smith Grand Conservatory; drop-off times are Tuesday – Saturday from 10:00 am – 5:00 pm, and Sunday from 12:00 pm – 5:00 pm; or
Element Food Panty — 600 E. Carlson Street, #100C, Cheyenne — please call (307) 200-8840 to coordinate drop-off days and times. They also have a Facebook page with additional information on their hours.
The produce will be weighed and matched with Laramie County anti-hunger organizations for distribution. If you have a larger donation (more than 5 pounds), contact the UW Laramie County Extension Office CNP Educators at (307) 633-4383; they may arrange pickup from your location.
Tips for Donating Produce
1. Quality matters: Treat your donations with care. Harvest in the cool morning or evening to preserve flavor. Handle produce gently to avoid bruising.
2. No washing or processing: Please do not wash or process your donations. Store unwashed veggies in a cool, dry place to prevent spoilage.
3. Prompt Delivery: Deliver produce promptly to maintain freshness.
Conclusion
The Grow a Little Extra campaign is simple yet impactful. If you have an acre or a windowsill, your garden can make a difference. Please contact the UW Laramie County Extension Office at (307) 633-4383 with questions. And if you’re a Laramie County Master Gardener, 1 pound of produce equates to 1 hour of volunteer time, so remember to record your produce weight in the UW Extension’s Wyoming Master Gardener Volunteer Reporting database. Join us and become a hunger hero!
Author: Suzanne Sauls, Laramie County Master Gardener
Additional Resources:
Wyoming Hunger Initiative’s “Grow a Little Extra” Campaign Website
UW Laramie County Extension Office: https://wyoextension.org/laramiecounty/, street address: 1400 East College Drive (Suite 406), Cheyenne, WY
“Wide-Bed Gardening for Easier Gardening and Higher Yields,” Garden Tips from the Cheyenne Botanic Gardens, 2003, available for download from https://www.botanic.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Wide-Bed-Gardening.pdf
Thanks to our LCMG Native Plants Committee for this month’s native plant profile on the Mexican Hat, Ratibida columnifera. The LCMG Native Plants Committee is a team of volunteers interested in learning more about native plants while sharing that information with others; co-chairs: Ken K. and Laura M.
Photo credit: Laura Mettler, Laramie County Master Gardener
For more information, check out the following resources:
Spring is on the horizon, and the Seed Library of Laramie County invites you to join the Gardening Adventure! Established in 2017, this collaborative project between the Laramie County Library System and the Laramie County Master Gardeners (LCMG) aims to educate and encourage residents with the joy of growing their own plants. Whether you’re a budding gardener, a newcomer to our community, or an experienced gardener looking to try new varieties, our seed library has just the seeds you need to thrive.
Marie M., seed library volunteer, packages one of 120 plant varieties available at the 2024 Seed Library Kick-Off Event
Theseed library kick-off eventis Saturday, March 23, 2024, from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm in the Cottonwood and Willow Rooms on the first floor of the Laramie County Library. This event is open to the public and you do not need a library card to select and receive up to 12 free seed packets per person. You must be a Laramie County Resident to participate. An online order form and seed catalog will be available starting March 23, 2024. Seeds will continue to be available for checkout on the 3rd Floor at the “Ask Here” Desk from March 24th through September 2024.
The Roots of Our Seed Library
Seed Library Co-Chairs, Elizabeth Thorson and Michelle Bohanan, with volunteers packaging seeds for the 2024 Kick-Off Event
Maggie McKenzie, seed library co-chair, fondly recalls its humble beginnings. She and several other Master Gardeners were inspired by a LCMG Lecture Series presentation from Penn and Cord Parmenter—seasoned gardeners who conquered the challenges of growing food at 8,000-foot elevations and shared regionally-adapted seeds at their local Seed Lending Library. The LCMG approached the Laramie County Library about the idea to start a seed library for our community, and after diligent research and visits to neighboring seed libraries, the Seed Library of Laramie County sprouted in 2017.
Elizabeth Thorson, Manager of Adult Services at the Laramie County Library, recalls the seed library’s modest start—a collection of 27 seed varieties with just enough seed packets to fill 20 shoeboxes. Fast forward to 2024, and they’re thrilled to offer over 120 varieties and a whopping 11,000 seed packets featuring vegetable, herbs, and flowers! Providing varieties known to reliably perform well for local gardeners is an important aspect of the program. As Michelle Bohanan, seed library co-chair, eloquently put it, “We want people to succeed, try again, and continue to build their gardening confidence.”
Seeds from Our Community
Laramie County Library & Master Gardener Volunteers packaging seeds for the 2024 year
At the core of the program are community volunteers, who drive everything from seed selection to packaging. Thorson commented, “We wouldn’t be able to do all of this without our volunteers…they make the program run.” Volunteers prioritize seed varieties that flourish within our brief growing season. While some seeds are purchased through regional companies, the heart of the collection lies in the generous donations from Laramie County Master Gardeners’ own gardens. Additionally, the seed library expanded their offerings to include seeds harvested from the Laramie County Library’s Urban Wildlife Habitat, including native plant varieties.
The seed library isn’t just about seeds; it’s about nurturing a sense of possibility. Thanks to support and funding from the Laramie County Library System and the Laramie County Master Gardeners, the seed library also offers educational events to cultivate gardening knowledge. These events included seed starting workshops, winter sowing tips, and landscaping insights. The Seed Library of Laramie County Website provides additional online resources and recommended planting schedule. Join us as we sow the seeds of community, growth, and wonder.
Author: Suzanne Sauls, Laramie County Master Gardener
Author: Clavel Guzman, Laramie County Master Gardener Trainee
Clover lawns are slowly growing in popularity due to their low maintenance habit, as well as their ability to be lush and green compared to normal grass lawns. However, is it a good option for Wyoming residents to have clover lawns? Will clover lawns be successful for Wyoming residents? Here are some pros, cons, and other facts to help you decide the best option for your lawn.
Pros
Mowing lawn less.
Most clover hardy to Zone 3.
Requires less water and less fertilization.
Can make grass healthier.
Don’t need herbicides or pesticides.
Helps with erosion control.
Attracts helpful insects.
Drought tolerant.
Pet friendly (resistant to dog urine).
Great support with fruit and vegetable gardens.
Eco-friendly compared to traditional grass lawns.
Improves soil due to the nitrogen.
Crowds out weeds.
Cons
Reseeding sooner as a perennial *Only-clover lawns need to be reseeded every 2 to 3 years; if mixed with grass lawns, it does not need to be reseeded.
Stains clothes easier than grass.
Roots creep over edging and can enter into unwanted areas.
If you overseed, the lawn can look patchy, lumpy or uneven.
During dry spells, will need more water than usual.
If clover gets infected with fungus. it is toxic to horses.
Weed killers will kill clovers.
Types of Clover
Stock Photo, iPhoto
White clover (trifolium reopens):
This type of clover can be in a full sun or partial sun location, and it will spread quickly and rapidly. It does well with poor soil and outcompetes weeds. Can pair with Red Clover, Kentucky bluegrass, Bermudagrass, red fescue or hard fescue. This clover produces white flowers that are great for pollinators, such as honeybees and butterflies. Can vary in height between 4 to 8 inches.
Stock Photo, iPhoto
Red Clover (trifolium pratense):
Red clover likes to be planted in either full sun or partial shade. This type of clover produces flowers that bloom a reddish-purple and have natural medicinal properties. The flower has a honey-like scent and is edible. This clover can grow taller ranging 6 to 24 inches in height. This pairs well with White Clover, Ryegrass, or tall fescue.
Stock Photo, iPhoto
Microclover (trifolium repents var. “Pirouette” and “Pipolina”):
This clover is the most popular with clover lawns because there are smaller leaves and fewer flowers. While this clover can be planted in partial sunlight, it will grow the best in full sunlight. This clover only grows 4 to 6 inches in height. It is also less prone to clumping than White clover which does help integrate with other grasses. May be paired with Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue.
Planting
After deciding which type is best for your lawn it’s time to start planting the seeds. The best time to plant any of these clover types is early spring around mid-March to mid-April or when temperatures will stay above 40 degrees F.
To start preparing soil, lightly rake the lawn. Seeding depth should be 1/8- to 1⁄4-inch deep. For the amount of seeds, it will be about 6 to 8 oz of seed per 1,000 square feet.
After sowing your seeds, water the soil lightly and mist until clovers take root. No fertilization is needed at the time of planting or the time it takes for seeds to show up. It will take about 2 weeks to germinate, water daily until you see leaves, reduce watering to about twice a week.
Summary
Are clover lawns a good option for Wyoming residents and will they be successful? Yes, clover lawns are a good option and successful for Wyoming residents. They will hold up in Wyoming’s climate. They are a great low management lawn with lush results.
Additional Resources
Forage Identification: White Clover, University of Wyoming Department of Plant Sciences, https://www.uwyo.edu/plantsciences/uwplant/forages/legume/white-clover.html
Forage Identification: Red Clover, University of Wyoming Department of Plant Sciences, https://www.uwyo.edu/plantsciences/uwplant/forages/legume/white-clover.html
“Should You Move Over to Clover?,” Tony Koski, PhD, Colorado State University Extension Turfgrass Specialist, available for download from https://cmg.extension.colostate.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/59/2021/02/Should-you-move-over-to-clover_Koski_2020.pdf
Author: Catherine Wissner, retired University of Wyoming Laramie County Extension Horticulturist and Laramie County Master Gardener
This in-between season of seed catalogs, but not being able to go out to garden, is a great opportunity to plan your vegetable and/or flower gardens. The best vegetable varieties and choices will be from catalogs and starting from seed.
First, put pencil to paper, or use a computer program, put down what vegetables you want to grow. What will the family eat, and do you want to preserve any? Fine tune your list by putting in days to maturity or harvest. That number can be found on the packet of seeds. Draw out a map of where you want these vegetables to grow.
Seed packets have a lot of important growing information on them. Find the days to fruit harvest or fruit maturity. If the packet shows 80 days to harvest add another 7 to 21 days for seed germination, or what is listed on the packet. Add another 14 to 21 days for the plant to grow to transplant in the garden size. If planting the last week of May, start your seeds mid- March.
Photo credit: Suzanne Sauls, 2024
A couple rules for starting seeds inside. Once planted never let the seed starting soil dry out, this requires daily inspections. Only mist water over the soil, never pour water on. Seeds need to start in a consistently warm environment of 65 to 75 degrees for proper germination. Only, use good quality seed starting soil, never soil from your garden. The packet will tell you how deep to plant the seed.
Tomatoes are the easiest to start, germinating in 5 days, peppers can take 2 to 3 weeks to germinate. No need to start root vegetables, like carrots or beets, from seed, they have a high transplant mortality rate.
Your plan must include an irrigation system. Vegetables are not drought tolerant, skimping on water will lead to a low harvest. Garden vegetable need water every 24 to 48 hours during the growing season. Never let the garden dry out. The best watering method, a soaker hose or drip tape system that is on a timer. Timers are inexpensive, battery operated, easy to set up and work consistently, even when you are away. The worst way to water, is with an overhead sprinkler system.
Author: Suzanne Sauls, with contributions from Stephen Johnson and Catherine Wissner, all Laramie County Master Gardeners
Stock Photo, Canva
Whether you’re a seasoned green thumb or a budding gardener, trimming your trees can be a game-changer. Pruning isn’t just about aesthetics (although it does wonders for a plant’s appearance). By snipping away those pesky diseased, damaged, or dying branches, you’re giving your plants a healthy boost. But wait, there’s more! Property protection is a part of the package. When those wild Wyoming winds blow or snow piles up, your pruned trees will stand tall, like the superheroes of your yard. Now, I know what you’re thinking because I’ve been there myself: “What if I mess up?” Pruning can be intimidating, but we’re here to guide you through the snip-and-clip dance. So, grab those pruning tools, put on your gloves, and let’s prune like pros!
Evergreens, Deciduous Trees, and Fruit Trees
Most evergreens need little to no pruning, but you may choose to go ahead and take the loppers to them just to control their size or promote bushier new growth (the University of Colorado Extension Master Gardeners’ GardenNote on evergreen pruning techniques is a good resource to check out for more information on evergreen pruning).[1] As for deciduous trees, the Wyoming State Forestry Division recommends winter pruning for those susceptible to fire blight, such as the mountain ash or hawthorn.[2] And fruit trees?…the University of Wyoming (UW) has the inside scoop: prune most fruit trees (except sweet cherries) while they’re still dormant. If your fruit tree has a natural spreading habit (like peach, European plum, or tart cherry), prune towards an open center, vase-shaped appearance. But if your fruit tree prefers to stand tall and proud (like apples and pears), consider leaving the central leader in place (one main trunk extending from the base to the top of the tree). In both these styles, don’t forget to scrutinize the lateral branches–prune to ensure even spacing which will help reduce fruit load stress and clear obstacles for more sunshine to reach the tree and fruit. Finally, removing large branches (should not be bigger than the adjacent branches on the same limb) that shade the more productive fruit-bearing limbs may also help.[3]
Now Is the Time
The best time to prune your tree is in Winter or Early Spring because trees are dormant—you’ll have a better view of its structure without its leaves and the tree is less stressed or susceptible to pests and diseases through your pruning cuts. A mild, dry day is ideal–recommend identifying a 4- to -5-day window where the temperatures are nice enough to get outside. And if temps are above 40 degrees F, take some time to do a little winter watering—your plants will thank you! And FYI, as for recurring pruning, check out the Wyoming State Forestry Division’s nifty tree pruning timeline tucked into their Wyoming Tree Owner’s Manual publication [4]:
At Tree Planting: Keep it simple–focus on removing any broken or dead branches, and if eliminate extra leaders. Over-pruning a tree can add stress and who needs that when you’re just getting settled into your new neighborhood?
2 Years Later: Your tree is growing up! Go for a light pruning every year to every-other-year for the first 10 years.
After a Decade: Now your tree has swagger–prune once every 1-3 years (for fruit trees), once every 4-7 years (for deciduous shade trees), or as needed (for evergreens).
Tips & Techniques
In general, you should consider the following questions when determining whether or not a branch should be pruned from the tree:
Are any branches Damaged, Diseased, or Dead (“the three Ds”)?
Are there any downward-growing branches?
Are any branches crossing or growing inward to the trunk?
Are there any suckers coming up from the roots or low on the trunk?
Are there any vertical branches (water sprouts)?
Does the tree have more than one central leader?
If any of these questions are answered “Yes,” then that branch will be a good candidate for pruning. Most trees, when pruned regularly, only require the use of hand pruners (bypass type), but thicker branches may require use of a Lopper (bypass type), hand saw, or pole saw. When pruning, the best technique is to look for the trunk collar (may also be referred to as the branch collar). Begin the cut close to, but just outside of the trunk collar, and angle down and away from the trunk to allow the tree to seal over the cut. Pruning outside of the trunk collar may also encourage new growth from a bud on the stub. The Wyoming State Forestry Division recommends supporting the branch with one hand while you make the cut to prevent the bark from ripping. If the branch is too large to support, they recommend using the three-step method illustrated below.[5]
Laramie County Master Gardener Stephen Johnson provides this tip if your property is rabbit-prone: “If an abundance of rabbits exists, leave removed branches on the ground. This may feed the rabbits through the winter and save the tree from being girdled by them.”
Common Mistakes to Avoid
It is not all fun and games when pruning trees, especially in chilly weather, so it’s best to take a few precautions:
Over-pruning: do not remove more than 25% – 30% of your tree’s live branches at any one time (good news: any dead or damaged branches you remove do not count against this percentage). Avoid tunnel vision—make some cuts, walk around the tree, make some more cuts, then step back and look at the whole tree from all angles—ensure your cuts result in a balanced look.
Using dirty, blunt tools: ensure your pruners and loppers are ready to take on your tree. Blunt tools may leave jagged wood ends which could become entry points for increased damage. To avoid spreading diseases between trees, we also recommend sterilizing your tools after each cut.
Use care around sharp objects and heights: If you must use a ladder, ask a friend to spot you – ensure the ground is even when you set up your ladder and don’t get overzealous in reaching to make cuts. If in doubt, contact a licensed arborist for help with large or high-risk pruning tasks. The City of Cheyenne Urban Forestry Division maintains a list of certified arborists on its website (http://www.cheyennetrees.com/arborists.php).
It’s the Small Victories (And Additional Resources)
As we look ahead to the warmth of summer, each cut is an investment, and our trees (and harvests) will thank us for this winter TLC. It’s the small victories—the branches trimmed just right, the diseased and dead limbs removed, and the promise of new growth in the season to come. Speaking of victories, the Laramie County Master Gardeners are inching closer to having our very own YouTube channel where we can demonstrate techniques in articles such as this one! We’ll let you know more in the future, but until then, check out these additional resources on tree pruning:
“Winter is the best time for pruning trees,” by Donna Cuin, UW College of Agriculture and Natural Resources, originally published in the Barnyards & Backyards April 2010 Newspaper Insert
[2][4][5]Wyoming Tree Owner’s Manual, revised and printed by the Wyoming State Forestry Division with permission from USDA Forest Service, Northeastern Area, 2021, available for download from https://www.uwyo.edu/barnbackyard/_files/documents/resources/trees/tree-owners-manual-toprint-edited2021.pdf.
[3]Apple, Pear Trees can survive and thrive in Wyoming, by Chris Hilgert, University of Wyoming Barnyards & Backyards Magazine, Spring 2016, available for download from https://www.uwyo.edu/barnbackyard/_files/documents/magazine/2016/spring/applepear0416.pdf
Written by Catherine Wissner, retired University of Wyoming Laramie County Extension Horticulturist and Laramie County Master Gardener.
Cyclamen, Stock Photo from Canva
A beautiful flowering holiday house plant that starts to show up after Christmas for Valentine’s Day is the Cyclamen. With its very attractive, semi-heart-shaped leaves, typically marked with a white or silver pattern on a green background. The flowers have five curved back slightly twist petals. The petals are joined at a short colorful tube at the base of the flower. Flowers are suspended above the foliage on slender stems that resemble butterflies. They are a small plant, about 8 inches tall, and as wide, they don’t take up much space, but make a big colorful statement.
Cyclamen flowers come in pink, red, white, or lavender colors. These pretty plants make an ideal gift or just a nice addition to one’s house plant collection. Cyclamens will keep blooming for a couple months, perking up winter days, but how to keep them going?
Cyclamen, Stock Photo from Canva
A Mediterranean climate plant, they have different care needs from most house plants. Keeping them from playing dead, a few tips: First, they need cool day temperatures of 55 to 65 degrees, 50 degrees at night. Find a cool spot in the home as warmer home temperatures cause the leaves to start yellowing, wilt, and while the plant wants to play dead, it’s not.
These warm house temps trigger the plant into thinking it’s going into a Mediterranean summer thus dormancy, the plant starts to die back. What to do to keep these beautiful plants going?
As typical of many house plants, cyclamens also need higher humidity along with moist soil. Cyclamen should be watered thoroughly when the soil looks and feels dry on the surface. Avoid watering the crown or center of the plant, this can cause it to rot. Water from the bottom and let it stand in water for 15 minutes is best.
When the leaves start to drop off, and they will, reduce water and stop using fertilizer. Move a now-dormant cyclamen to a cool, low light, house location for the summer. Don’t over water while leafless, just an enough water to keep it slightly damp.
In mid-Fall, still keeping it in a cool, but now bright, location, start to water again, using a low nitrogen fertilizer to wake up your cyclamen. It should start to grow new leaves and hopefully bloom again.
— Author: Kim Parker, Laramie County Advanced Master Gardener
Catleya Orchid, Photo Credit: Kim Parker
On Valentine’s Day, think about giving a live plant with long-lasting blooms instead of cut flowers! Orchids are the second most popular flower and represent love, beauty, and refinement. They come in a dizzying array of colors and sizes. Orchids do well in our homes or offices and the flowers can last for several weeks or even months! Here are some easy tips to keep your orchids alive and reblooming for many years to come!
Bring home a healthy plant! The best thing you can do to ensure a long-lived orchid is to bring home a healthy plant. Do the orchids all look healthy, or are there a lot of sick and dying ones in the display? For a healthy plant, look for:
Leaves that are firm and plump and not wilted, wrinkly, or floppy. Avoid plants with missing or broken leaves or leaves with brown or black spots.
Roots that are firm and plump – bright white or silvery if dry and grass green if wet. Growing tips will be pointy and grass green or slightly purple and are a sign of a healthy plant.
The flowers closest to the plant will open first and should be open all the way, not wilting, falling off, or missing. Purchase an orchid with at least 3 unopened buds on the end of the flower spike, so that you know it will continue to bloom for a long time.
Bugs are good at hiding, so if you see some with just a glance, go to a different store! Look into the leaf crevices for any crawling insects like scale, mealy bugs (white cottony bugs), thrips, or aphids. We’ll talk more about those in another blog! Fungus gnats are not serious pests and can be controlled by watering correctly.
Phal Display, Photo credit: Kim Parker
Water only when they need it! Orchids are tropical plants and should never be “watered” with ice cubes! Most orchids are epiphytes, which means they do not grow in soil, but on tree branches or rocks, allowing their roots to drain completely. Water your orchids when the medium begins to dry, about every 3 to 7 days. Hold under tepid water for 30 seconds and let drain completely. Remove from the decorative pot before watering if there are no drainage holes. The fastest way to kill your orchid is to allow the roots to sit in water!
Find the right light! Orchids are particular about how much light they need. Most grow well in bright, indirect light, or under fluorescent lights like African violets or Christmas cactus. Avoid direct sun from south or west windows. If the tag does not tell you how much light they need, check out the American Orchid Society culture sheet for your type of orchid.
Stay tuned for our next orchid article (coming May 2024) covering the most popular, widely-available orchid! Phalaenopsis, or “Moth” orchids, have big, beautiful flowers that last up to 6 months! For a bonus, they are the easiest to grow, too!
